Barry Castle

Tucked away in the west-end of the town of Barry are the remains of Barry Castle. The castle, although small and ruinous, still has the power to intrigue and captivate. Barry Castle had all the hallmarks of a strong military stronghold and could sport a drawbridge, port cullis and murder holes, despite being in essence a fortified manor house that in reality could probably not have held off a prolonged siege for any great length of time. It may not have been the home of a marcher lord, and there are certainly larger and more impressive castles in South Wales, but Barry Castle nether the less is a fascinating place that represents a world and existence long vanished.

Barry Castle was the erstwhile home of the de Barry family. The de Barry family held the manor of Barry under feudal tenure as a sub-manor from their overlords-the de Umfraville family of Penmark. The manor of Barry was held at one knight's fee, meaning that the resident lord of Barry was obliged to provide his overlord with military service as and when required. Barry, being a sub-manor, was smaller in size than its larger and more profitable relation at Penmark, which was worth four knight's fees. 

 (An early twentieth century view of Barry castle)

The de Barry family likely acquired the manor of Barry at around the early twelfth century. The name de Barry is most likely derived from the nearby shire of St Baruc which was located on Barry Island. This religious shrine had been in existence for quite some time before the Normans arrived in Glamorgan.

Gerald of Barry, aka, Gerald of Wales (1146-1223), a famous relation of the de Barry family, had opportunity to record for posterity the origins of his family's Christian name when accompanying Archbishop Baldwin on his Welsh tour of 1188. Gerald states that 'not far from Caerdyf is a small island called Barri, from St. Baroc, who formerly lived there, and who's remains are deposited in a chapel overgrown with iv, having been transferred to a coffin, further stating that, 'from hence a noble family, of the maritime parts of South Wales, owned this island and the adjoining estates, received the name of de Barri'.   

  

(The de Barry family were well connected people, this picture depicts a prominent relation, uncle of Gerald of Barry, Maurice Fitzgerald (1105-1176), a cambro-Norman baron who spearheaded the Norman invasion of Ireland)

We know little in regard to Barry Castle's early architectural phase. In common with many castles within the Vale of Glamorgan however, Barry Castle most likely began its existence as a simple ring work structure.  Interestingly, an estate map commissioned in 1622 by the St. John’s of Fonmon depicts the castle within a possible enclosure. An external ditch beyond the west wall was also discovered during trench digging for electricity cables in 1960 and 1979 which lends credence to this theory.

  

By the late thirteenth century Barry Castle exhibited at least two substantial stone constructed buildings which were located on the east and west sides of Barry castle respectively. These buildings, although no longer visible above ground, were uncovered by chance during trench digging in 1960 and 1979. The present remains date to the early fourteenth century and consist of a gatehouse adjoined to a hall, the foundations of a south-west tower, and curtain walls to the west, north and east.

Despite Barry castle's early architectural phase being a mystery, we do know something of its early owners. The first recorded member of the de Barry family was one William de Barry (1180–1234). In 1225 William saw military service in Ireland fighting for King Henry III and during the years 1232-4 William de Barry was involved in Richard Marshal’s rebellion. William also witnessed charters being granted at the comitatus at Cardiff in 1201 and again in 1208. William had a son named Lucas.

  

        (View of Barry castle from Castle Farm)

There is recorded another William de Barry as resident of Barry castle during the mid-thirteenth century. This William is also recorded as being a witness to charters being granted at the comitatus at Cardiff in 1247 and again in 1249; William was also witness to a land grant relating to Cogan. By the end of the thirteenth century Barry was in the hands of a second Lucas de Barry (1287–1323), who was present on one of Edward I Scottish campaigns. The de Barry's during the thirteenth century were clearly busy people who not only lived up to their feudal obligations on a local level but were actively engaged in national affairs of consequence.

Architecturally, the gatehouse is the most intact and visually impressive survival at Barry Castle. The resident lord of Barry manor at the time the gatehouse was built was John de Barry (1300-40) whose father Lucas de Barry granted John the manor upon his marriage to Isabelle, daughter of Philip de la More, before he left to embark on Edward I Scottish campaign. It is likely that it was John who commissioned or at least oversaw the construction of the gatehouse. 

The gatehouse would have been entered via a gothic segmented pointed arch which was typical for the period and contained a variety of defensive features to deter any would be attackers. There would have been a drawbridge and portcullis, of which the grooves still survive, and there would also have been two large inner wooden doors. Above the gatehouse was a vaulted gate-passage with the above room acting as a chapel or oratory with a small alter set within the sill of the east window; this room also contained the portcullis and was directly connected with the main hall. Directly above the main entrance was a large splayed lancet window, of which the left jamb survives, as well as an eroded head which would have formed one of two, possibly depicting a knight and his lady.  The window, which also had iron bars inserted, is dated to around 1310-50.   

  

  (Conjectural illustration of Barry castle during the Fourteenth Century)

It is possible that the quasi-military image projected with this gatehouse could have been little more than medieval swank, as it seems superfluous given that this was in essence a manor house with muscles; however, there may have been a genuine need to improve security as this was a turbulent time politically. For example, during the late thirteenth century there was a serious rebellion throughout Wales instigated by the dispossessed Welsh lord Madog ap Llywelyn, led in Glamorgan by Morgan ap Maredudd (son of the dispossessed former lord of Machen Maredudd ap Llywelyn) which affected all of the Glamorgan area as it had popular support among the Welsh.  Gilbert de Clare, the then marcher lord of Glamorgan, was ultimately unable to subdue the rebellion and Edward I had to intervene to bring it to an end in 1295.  

The hall, of which a section of walling survives, was the largest building in Barry Castle and formed a part of the south perimeter wall. The hall consisted of two levels. The upper floor acted as the main hall and the lower level served as a cellar or storage basement.   

  (View of the hall at Barry castle C 1900. People's Collection Wales)

One would have gained access to the basement storage area via a door from the courtyard. The upper hall would also have been accessed from the courtyard but by a flight of stone steps.  The hall itself would have been the grandest room in the castle; its interior walls would have been rendered and perhaps had imitation ashlar, heraldic emblems, religious scenes or those from everyday life painted onto the plaster as can be viewed at other castles, such as at Chepstow, or even at humble cottages, such as the wedding lady painting painted on a plaster wall at Cold Knap Farm sometime during the 1560s.  In fact, it would have probably been a fairly colourful place. The hall would have sported wooden beams which would have had rested on stone corbels, some of which survive, as well as having carved and painted timber work and dressed-stone embellishments. There would also have been a grand fireplace set within the north wall. Some of this fireplace survives.  

The chapel, which was located adjacent to the upper level of the hall, would have had a slightly higher floor level, and would probably also have had painted walls, perhaps depicting biblical scenes as was common in medieval churches. Just to the right of the chapel entrance was another door; this is speculated to have led out onto a wall-walk. Medieval halls tended to have garderobes (toilets) but this facility appears to have been absent at Barry, which is not to say one didn’t exist. An interesting feature of this building is that its north-east corner is rounded to facilitate the passing of carts into the courtyard.  

(The hall of Barry Castle C 1900. People's Collection Wales)

Architecturally Barry castle reached its zenith during the early to mid-fourteenth century. No more building work is noted after this period. It was at around this time John de Barry was complicit in the baronial uprising of 1321 and managed to get all his lands confiscated for his pains, although they were restored to him in 1327.

By the middle of the fourteenth century both of John de Barry's sons were dead and the manor of Barry passed to his daughter Joan (1331-51). Joan's son Thomas Marshall (1340-86) inherited the manor of Barry upon his mother's death. The manor of Barry upon Thomas's death became a possession of the St John's of Fonmon who were to retain ownership of the manor for centuries to come.

  

The transfer of ownership of the manor of Barry to the St John's saw the beginning of the decline of Barry Castle as a lordly residence as it seems that the St John's did not invest in its maintenance. It is likely that the disasters of the middle of the fourteenth century such as plague and famine contributed towards this decline. The archaeology of nearby Barry village confirms that these disasters hit the locality hard as not one of the excavated buildings shows evidence of occupation into the latter part of the fourteenth century or into the fifteenth century. 

  

                                 

 (View of the interior of the gatehouse taken in 1910)

By the time John Leland visited Barry Castle in the 1530’s it had become ruinous as Leland records 'this castle stondith on a little hil, and most of it is in ruine.  Master St John of Bedfordshire is lorde of it'. It was during the late sixteenth century that Barry Castle gained a new lease of life when enterprising local Willian Wilkyn erected a cottage within the shell of the old hall which doubled as an ale-house. The port of Barry was a busy one during the sixteenth century and no doubt many a Tudor sea-dog made the short journey up from the Old Harbour, past the medieval church of St Nicholas, and to Barry castle 'ale-house', as according to the records, there was more than just ale on offer. In the year 1583 William was indicted for selling ale without a licence and for keeping suspected prostitutes. 

  (Tudor/Stuart depiction of a tavern)

In the year 1666 the manor of Barry was sold by the St John's to Evan Says of Boverton for £1,740. Throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries the gatehouse of Barry Castle was in use as a meeting place for manorial courts which probably helped to contribute towards its relative good state of preservation. Around the year 1800 William Wilkyn's cottage was pulled down and Barry Castle was left a gaunt ruin-much as we see it today. It was around this time Barry Castle began to attract its first visitors.

The Rev J Evans who visited Barry in 1803 was intrigued with the ruins of Barry Castle and provides us with a brief description stating that Barry Castle “consisted of a few walls included in a barn; and an arched gateway, now the entrance into a farm yard”. Antiquarian Iolo Morganwg was also sufficiently intrigued by Barry Castle to pay a visit as was celebrated archaeologist G T Clark, who sketched Barry castle during the 1830's. Barry castle is grade II listed building currently in the care of CADW.

©Jonathan and Mark Lambert 2016

The right of Jonathan and Mark Lambert to be identified as Authors of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyrights, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reprinted, reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic means, including social media, or mechanical, or by any other means including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the authors.